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How To Apply Eyeshadow To Hooded Eyes, According To Makeup Artists
“I have hooded eyes, and eyeshadow – and really making it show up on the lid – has always been a challenge,” says professional makeup artist Kirin Bhatty. Product creasing within the eye’s natural fold can also be tricky, says celebrity makeup artist Christian Briceno. But don’t worry, with the right techniques you can create eyeshadow looks that not only work with your lids, but make your eyes – and your whole makeup – pop.
From bold swipes of colour to soft shimmering glam, keep reading to find out our experts’ best tips for how to apply eyeshadow to hooded eyes.
How should you prep your lids for eyeshadow?
When it comes to priming your lids for eyeshadow, there are two distinct camps: Those who are pro-primer and those who forgo it. If you’ve got hooded eyes, you’ll probably find yourself needing primer as a precaution to stop your eyeshadow from smudging.
“A smooth base is everything,” Christian agrees. “I always start with an eyeshadow primer to control oil and give the eyeshadow something to grab onto.” He suggests Urban Decay Primer Potion or Nars Smudgeproof Eyeshadow Base, and notes that if the client’s lids are especially oily, he’ll set the primer with a touch of translucent powder before adding shadow. “That little step makes blending easier and keeps everything locked down,” he says.
How should you apply eyeshadow to hooded eyes for the best results?
If you want to maximise your eyeshadow look on hooded lids, experts recommend investing in a fluffy, tapered brush. “This tool allows you to exaggerate your lid crease without creating any harsh lines, as the brush is very airy and light,” Kirin says.
Christian recommends using the MAC 217S Blending Brush to pat the product on first, then softly blend out the edges – swiping the product back and forth can muddy the appearance and decrease the product’s integrity on the skin. “With hooded eyes, I’ll cheat the crease by going slightly higher so the colour still shows when eyes are open,” he says. To create this more lifted look, I’ll delicately sweep the colour so it diffuses above the lid and is visible whether your eyes are open or closed. The best way to achieve this is by looking straight ahead in the mirror when applying your eyeshadow, don’t be tempted to look down into your mirror in this instance.
Another helpful tip comes from makeup artist and head of artist relations at Virtual Cosmetics, Jack Oliver. “You can naturally fake a ‘crease’ if you need using a neutral flat matte eyeshadow,” they say. “Gently use back and forth motions in the space you’d like to lift the eye, then continue with your shadow colours to achieve your desired look.”
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Mac 217 Synthetic Blending Brush
How can you make sure your eyeshadow lasts?
Making your eyeshadow last is one of the biggest obstacles for people with hooded eyes as the constant friction and (typically) more oily skin tends to lead to it slowly rubbing away as the day progresses – leaving you with a sweaty, smudged mess by lunchtime.
Christian emphasises that the longevity of shadow on hooded lids depends on the care you take in applying it. “It’s about layering thin, even amounts of product creams first, then setting them with powders in the same tone so they reinforce each other.”
Kirin also highlights the importance of skin prep and product application, she also recommends finishing with a mist of an ultrafine setting spray, like the Dior Forever Perfect Fix Face Mist. “The goal is grip without weight,” Christian says. While fine mists are great for giving your skin a glowy finish, I’ve found more heavyweight setting sprays are best for keeping my eyeshadow in place with hooded eyes – One/Size On ‘Til Dawn Mattifying Waterproof Setting Spray and Collection Ultra Hold 3-Second Setting Spray are some of my go-to faves that I’ve tried and tested in the height of summer.